Enter a world of magic and mystery, in my own head, where surfing and snowboarding are considered real jobs! Amazing feats of daring and skill are performed every day - and that's just getting the footage onto film!
Media anarchist, film guru, surf addict and web video blogger!
The 8 and 9th of October started the Northern hemisphere big wave season with a bang at Jaws on Maui. Amongst the crew of big wave surfers charging gaping tubes and 50ft faces, were Ian Walsh and Shane Dorian. Check out their video from the mammoth day and let your jaw drop to the floor when you see the tubes that were made and the wipe outs that could kill a man!
The recent paddle session at Jaws, Maui, has the whole world fascinated. The videos have been doing the rounds and the youtube views multiplying. Our very own Twig and Kate were there for the action and while Kate filmed from the safety of the cliffs - no doubt holding her breath anyway, every time Twig got hammered - Twig was out there with the boys charging.
I caught up with him online and got his feedback on this historic session...
Cpt Kai: How big was it out there?
Twig: Pretty dam big to be paddling, but what made it worse was how strong the
offshore was and this is the most difficult wind to deal with in big
waves.
Cpt Kai: It looked pretty crowded - is this common in surf this size? Twig: It's becoming more and more common and that's why it's been a mission of
mine to move out from the more popular big wave spots trying to find
something new and less crowded. Saying that only, 10 real waves where
ridden that day and only 3-5 of them where completed so the crowd wasn't the issue, the wave was!!
Cpt Kai: How bad were the beatings?
Very bad, I saw so many guys tombstoning for what seemed like an
eternity, but because it was my first time out there paddling I was
pretty conservative and didn't get beaten to badly.
Cpt Kai: How were your waves?
Twig: I had three waves in 6 hours, one I shared with another surfer, one I
wiped out on the takeoff and one I took off behind the bowl and made it
so all in all it was a good day.
Cpt Kai: Is this a sign of things to come, less tow on the really big days, as more guys start paddling?
Twig: Yes, tow surfing is a dying sport and from here on out there will be
guys paddling every big swell at the known spots. We had a day at
Dungeons this year that we should have paddled but ended up towing and I
can't see that happening again. Cpt Kai: What was the biggest wave made that day?
Twig: Dave Wassel had the biggest wave and will probably be the new world
record holder, but he just went straight and Dorian had a huge one that
he made around the corner.
Cpt Kai: Where to next Twig?
Twig: Just traveling the world surfing and trying to find new uncrowded
areas to hang out and get some waves with a few close friends...
We hope you find those waves my man and good luck on your travels (Lucky Bastard, hehe).
Big wave surfer Jeff Rowley ‘paddles-in’ to historic 50-foot plus (15m+) waves at Peahi “Jaws” and becomes the first Australian to ride the waves without Jet Ski tow-in. Our very own Grant "Twig" Baker was there too and you can check some great photos at Surfline - HERE
